Right way to prime a truck and finish out the frame

C

Clueless lol

I’m getting ready to do my first restoration. It’s a 71 Chevy 4x4. I’m a certified mechanic but know almost nothing about body work other than what I’ve been studying online. I’m hoping a professional on here will walk me through the steps I need and by the steps I mean ones that match this company’s instructions for their products. I’ll be sandblasting the frame and epoxy priming and painting it. I’m gonna do all the bodywork myself except the base coat and clear coat. I don’t trust myself to do the finish work. Lol. I need step by step instructions including cleaning before primer coats. I’ve already seen arguments on here about soap and water use before priming and using two different cleaning products that I can buy on here. I think itd make me sick to see flash rust on my truck before priming though!!! I need to know. 1. How to prep ie what grit of sandpaper in what order before each step. What to do final cleaning with and how. Which product to use in order all the way up till I take it to the body shop. I trust myself finishing the frame only. Lol. I also need to know quantities of what to order. I’d like to errr on the side of to much if anything because I don’t want to run out in the middle on the weekend. Lol. Thanks for any help. I just want to make sure I do everything right! I’m good with an airless paint sprayer for houses. Not sure if that translates to cars?? Do I need to thin any of these products?
 
Lots of good info here in tech tips. First thread titled Bare metal prepping should answer most of your questions. With careful planning and good info less chance for something to go wrong. Hope you have much success with it.
 
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Lots of good info here in tech tips. First thread titled Bare metal prepping should answer most of your questions. With careful planning and good info less chance for something to go wrong. Hope you have much success with it.
I’ll check it out! Thanks!
 
Its kind of a loaded question because what works for some does not work for all. Its pretty basic, get oils, grease and wax off before you smear it all around with the sand paper. Coarser grit works faster followed by finer until you get to the grit that the supplier recommends to spray over..

Have you already talked to the body shop though? For the most part, I dont think they like going over anyone elses work since when the paint pops off or fails they are the one that gets blamed and they know it all starts at the base metal. You might want to make sure before you go thru this all and they end up charging you to do it all over again.
 
Read through this book, it is the SPI Tech Manual. It will highlight the correct details for any product you intend to use, in addition to that it also covers several important topics at the back. Starting on page 36 are some tips on getting your gun dialed in, and then on page 38 is The Perfect Paint Job. The Perfect Paint Job is a fantastic thing to have and reference throughout the process.

There are also many good tips on the FAQ page.

I agree with anotheridiot, have you found someone to do the base clear only? I would think that would be next to impossible to find unless you know someone on a personal basis.
 
Its kind of a loaded question because what works for some does not work for all. Its pretty basic, get oils, grease and wax off before you smear it all around with the sand paper. Coarser grit works faster followed by finer until you get to the grit that the supplier recommends to spray over..

Have you already talked to the body shop though? For the most part, I dont think they like going over anyone elses work since when the paint pops off or fails they are the one that gets blamed and they know it all starts at the base metal. You might want to make sure before you go thru this all and they end up charging you to do it all over again.
That’s a very good point. I’m hoping by the time I’m done with all the priming that I’ll have built up the confidence to just finish it. I have someone that
Its kind of a loaded question because what works for some does not work for all. Its pretty basic, get oils, grease and wax off before you smear it all around with the sand paper. Coarser grit works faster followed by finer until you get to the grit that the supplier recommends to spray over..

Have you already talked to the body shop though? For the most part, I dont think they like going over anyone elses work since when the paint pops off or fails they are the one that gets blamed and they know it all starts at the base metal. You might want to make sure before you go thru this all and they end up charging you to do it all over again.
thats a very good point!! I’m hoping by then I’ll have the confidence after doing all the priming to just paint it myself. Worse comes to worse I have a guy that will do it.
 
Its kind of a loaded question because what works for some does not work for all. Its pretty basic, get oils, grease and wax off before you smear it all around with the sand paper. Coarser grit works faster followed by finer until you get to the grit that the supplier recommends to spray over..

Have you already talked to the body shop though? For the most part, I dont think they like going over anyone elses work since when the paint pops off or fails they are the one that gets blamed and they know it all starts at the base metal. You might want to make sure before you go thru this all and they end up charging you to do it all over again.
Sounds like I better put my big boy pants on and just take my time and learn and do it all. Lol.
Is spraying base and clear any harder that spraying primers? Also I am doing orange and white two tone. I don’t think the orange paint from dpi is shade I want. Can I buy white from spi and get someone to color it? If not what’s a good brand of paint to buy that’s user friendly and works well with spi clear? Also I think I read on here that I should use white 2k primer instead of grey with an orange base coat going over it?
 
The good part is you are willing to try spraying, so by the time you spray the primer down, (over and over) you might just decide to keep going and put the finish on it.
The good thing about using darker primers is that you see more waves in dark than you do with white. it is good to use different color primers when blocking because you can see when you get down to the next level and a lighter color will stay in the low spots while the dark color shows you where you started, then alternate back and forth. You will be priming alot and getting spraying practice, then just go to the white as a sealer after you are satisfied with your work. If you are painting some white, you might as well just paint it all white so the orange pops brighter.
You dont have to go the base clear route, you can just use single stage so you can sand out your orange peel and runs and buff from there or still scratch it and clear after.
These are just lessons I spent time learning instead of getting clued in. Yes, after you screw up you figure you could have figured that out, but its at least a head start.
 
The good part is you are willing to try spraying, so by the time you spray the primer down, (over and over) you might just decide to keep going and put the finish on it.
The good thing about using darker primers is that you see more waves in dark than you do with white. it is good to use different color primers when blocking because you can see when you get down to the next level and a lighter color will stay in the low spots while the dark color shows you where you started, then alternate back and forth. You will be priming alot and getting spraying practice, then just go to the white as a sealer after you are satisfied with your work. If you are painting some white, you might as well just paint it all white so the orange pops brighter.
You dont have to go the base clear route, you can just use single stage so you can sand out your orange peel and runs and buff from there or still scratch it and clear after.
These are just lessons I spent time learning instead of getting clued in. Yes, after you screw up you figure you could have figured that out, but its at least a head start.
That’s great advise!! Thanks!! Single stage paint sounds a lot easier. What’s the downside? More like new car paint job instead of show car?
 
Another question. All the videos I see of painting body panels have them laying flat but what about the other side? Shouldn’t I be hanging them by a hook and doing inside and out all in one go?
 
Any panels need to be sprayed the way they are on vehicle. Doors upright, hood flat, etc.
What’s the reason for that?? Do I need to paint hood and let it dry and then flip it and paint other side? Can I hang it with hooks and spray from underneath?
 
You really need to just start searching the forum and start reading. There is so much good info on this forum. And it is info you can trust not stuff that just gets repeated by guys who read it somewhere else and may or may not be true. Just start searching and reading, you'll be surprised how much you'll learn.

Look through these members posts "shine" "JimC" "Barry" "crashtech" "Chris_Hamilton" "MP&C" that will get you started. Read the build threads by Rusty Gillis. He documents them well http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?search/88258/

Lots (all?) of your questions have been asked and answered before. Read through those postings. Read the SPI Manual especially the Perfect Paint Job article.
 
Th
You really need to just start searching the forum and start reading. There is so much good info on this forum. And it is info you can trust not stuff that just gets repeated by guys who read it somewhere else and may or may not be true. Just start searching and reading, you'll be surprised how much you'll learn.

Look through these members posts "shine" "JimC" "Barry" "crashtech" "Chris_Hamilton" "MP&C" that will get you started. Read the build threads by Rusty Gillis. He documents them well http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?search/88258/

Lots (all?) of your questions have been asked and answered before. Read through those postings. Read the SPI Manual especially the Perfect Paint Job article.
Thanks! I definitely will! Just spent 2 hours googling what a good paint brand is to use and surprisingly couldn’t find anything! I’m sure there’s answers in here like you said. Perfect paint job article is really good!!
 
You really need to just start searching the forum and start reading. There is so much good info on this forum. And it is info you can trust not stuff that just gets repeated by guys who read it somewhere else and may or may not be true. Just start searching and reading, you'll be surprised how much you'll learn.

Look through these members posts "shine" "JimC" "Barry" "crashtech" "Chris_Hamilton" "MP&C" that will get you started. Read the build threads by Rusty Gillis. He documents them well http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?search/88258/

Lots (all?) of your questions have been asked and answered before. Read through those postings. Read the SPI Manual especially the Perfect Paint Job article.

I couldn't agree more with what Chris said. It is the path I took 5 years ago, I just started reading. Think of it as a class in school, this week read and learn about prep, next weeks topic is epoxy primer, next week is sanding, and so on.

Once I had enough knowledge and confidence I started a small project and asked questions as they popped up. Id suggest you try the same thing when you are ready. Dont jump right in to something big, get the basics dialed in on something small.

Th

Thanks! I definitely will! Just spent 2 hours googling what a good paint brand is to use and surprisingly couldn’t find anything! I’m sure there’s answers in here like you said. Perfect paint job article is really good!!

Be leery of what you search on google, you will find all kinds of misinformation around the web when it comes to autobody work. Stick with the forum here, its members are some of the best around.
 
Th

Thanks! I definitely will! Just spent 2 hours googling what a good paint brand is to use and surprisingly couldn’t find anything! I’m sure there’s answers in here like you said. Perfect paint job article is really good!!
Most of the major paint companies have several levels of quality. The most expensive is usually the best they have. Less expensive is usually thinner so more has to be applied to get coverage. More paint applied means more solvents that have to evaporate as it dries. Also means have to buy more paint to put on so you're not saving that much money. I usually ask people do you want to put 6 coats on or just put 3? Also better paint means that the color stays looking good for a longer time.
 
I couldn't agree more with what Chris said. It is the path I took 5 years ago, I just started reading. Think of it as a class in school, this week read and learn about prep, next weeks topic is epoxy primer, next week is sanding, and so on.

Once I had enough knowledge and confidence I started a small project and asked questions as they popped up. Id suggest you try the same thing when you are ready. Dont jump right in to something big, get the basics dialed in on something small.



Be leery of what you search on google, you will find all kinds of misinformation around the web when it comes to autobody work. Stick with the forum here, its members are some of the best around.
I totally agree with when your all coming from!! I went to school robe a certified auto and diesel truck mechanic and everything has a very specific right way of doing everything! That’s what I’m looking for! The information is only as good as it’s source. I want to learn from the pros! What base coat paint should I buy to go with the rest of the spi products? I’ve been reading and studying a ton and I know the devils in the details just like building and engine or trans. Don’t get me started lol. I’ll pay whatever it costs for good paint but not looking to get screwed for advertising or by buying a cheaper option of a high end paint. I.e. cheap version of Olg that’s maybe not as good as expensive version? I buy and remodel houses and I know all about cheap paint!! You don’t save shit!! The paint I Sparta in them is Sherwin Williams and $57 a gallon for a rental! I only pay $20 after contractor discount and 5 gallon pails but I get it. Cheap paint sucks at least for houses. Same way for automotive? Want a long lasting showcar shine! If I can do it without breaking the bank that’s better yet!
 
That’s great advise!! Thanks!! Single stage paint sounds a lot easier. What’s the downside? More like new car paint job instead of show car?

The main difference is you can color sand a single stage product to fix small problems, then just buff it. If you have any pearl in the white or metallic in the orange basecoat product, you cant just scuff it back before clearing, basecoat becomes a complete paint once clear is on and that is when you can sand it. If you scuff a metallic base, you pretty much end up with a metallic silver line where you sanded it and you have to be really good at blending to just touch it up. If single stage not laying down flat or has alot of peel, an extra couple coats allows you sanding space before breaking thru to primer which is where the term color sanding comes from.

Base and clear together make a product you can sand. IF you want to clear single stage you still can.

Of course, you plan for the hard stuff and you will probably end up doing a good job that you dont have to mess with.
 
The main difference is you can color sand a single stage product to fix small problems, then just buff it. If you have any pearl in the white or metallic in the orange basecoat product, you cant just scuff it back before clearing, basecoat becomes a complete paint once clear is on and that is when you can sand it. If you scuff a metallic base, you pretty much end up with a metallic silver line where you sanded it and you have to be really good at blending to just touch it up. If single stage not laying down flat or has alot of peel, an extra couple coats allows you sanding space before breaking thru to primer which is where the term color sanding comes from.

Base and clear together make a product you can sand. IF you want to clear single stage you still can.

Of course, you plan for the hard stuff and you will probably end up doing a good job that you dont have to mess with.
Thanks so much for the info! You guys are all great! I’m still hoping someone or multiple someone’s names their favorite brand of base coat paint. I know it’s a loaded question and a matter of opinion but I want a good quality paint that lays down nice and thick and looks great. I’m having a heck of a time finding anything online. Theres a lot of people complaining about Omni from ppg which I’m guessing is their cheaper product but I don’t even feel comfortable buying what’s supposedly top of the line paint for a lot of money if that’s the case? There has to be someone on here that’s sprayed a half a dozen brands and can tell the difference? I could totally give recommendations for house paint!! You couldn’t give me some of the cheap stuff to use for free!! I’d pay you to take it back!
 
Standox, Spies Hecker, Glasurit, Sikkens have always been high quality. In general, european base has always been better than base from "the big three", IMO. PPG is overpriced and doesn't cover that great, and their lower lines are worse. Dupont never covered well, either, especially certain colors. Sherwin base (Ultra 7000) sprays easily and covers well, but will bite you if you don't let it dry completely before clear, you can't sand it, uses a special reducer and has gotten as expensive as DBC. That being said, there are good and bad qualities in all refinish products, but most can work if everything is done to the letter. I've sprayed at least 20 different basecoats in the last 30+ years, and none are far and away better than rest, IMO, but the top of the line bases from any company are what they base their reputation on, and are usually worth the money in the long run.
 
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