Can any clear handle this? Parts Washer Restoration

mitch_04

Learnin'
I'm restoring a Kleer-Flow Cleanmaster Model 70B (http://www.ct-assocs.com/cleanmaster-two-level.html) that we've had in our shop forever. It's now going to MY shop, where it will not be abused daily, just used occasionally. I'd like to restore it, but I'm concerned with the paints ability to handle being soaked in mineral spirits 24/7.


My game plan is simple. Sandblast - Epoxy - Color - Clear (or Single Stage)

I have no problem letting it cure for months if that'd be the best, but I would like to know which clear (or single stage) would have the best chances of surviving in this environment.

Any suggestions? Barry?
 
Pic for reference
j80.jpg
 
Seems like the last parts washer I used had a stainless tub. Mineral spirits are mild, but still, that seems like harsh duty for any refinish paint. I wonder what Barry will say.
 
If paint is under solvent 24/7, only option is epoxy as regular paint will start bubbling in 5 to 9 months because of not getting air.
Spray 3 coats of epoxy or 4 and let set for month
 
Any idea what paint the companies use? This thing still has almost all of the paint on it despite decades of use. We have another el-cheapo parts washer that I just cleaned out and even that has all the paint remaining.


Would any certain type be better? Enamel, urethane, etc...

The original paint is a nice bright red, and I'd like to keep it that way. The inside of the tank is white, so I could get by with white epoxy, but the soak tank with aerator is red and is always submerged.
 
Even the best powdercoating I've used will soften and dull when washed with spray can brake cleaner ...will come off on a towel.
 
I have a J80 Kleer flow that I bought local that was just spraybombed white outside and the red lid outside. Been using it for over 10 years and the outside looks fine. inside has the original red under the lid and white inside. The baskets are black paint. Non of the paint looks special and it's just bare metal under the scratches.

Mine doesn't hold the solvent above the basket line. When you turn it on it comes from the lower tank and rinses the shelf/parts and then migrates back down to the bottom. It's not hard on the paint inside and I use 5 gallon buckets of parts washer from tractor supply.

I'd just epoxy it and use some SS or enamel to restore it.

I have a lot better luck washing parts with 710 or Schaffer's Citrol than I do using the parts washer.
 
I think I'm going to use epoxy on anything submersed, red oxide might not be super bright and match the outside, but once the fluid is dirty it doesn't matter. I'm going to layer the bottom in fuel tank liner to prevent the pinhole leaks in the future, we have 2 of these and both had the same issue.


Barry, would the fuel tank liners work well within the 7 day epoxy window, or should it cure and scuff?
 
ive seen a paint called hammerite that is often used to restore antique tools like vises and such on youtube looks pretty tough
 
what you want to use is novalac epoxy. this is used to line fuel, sulfuric acid tanks and extremely harsh chemical tanks. the dip tanks used in chrome plating, anodizing for instance are usually lined with it. you can probably put spi epoxy down for getting your color then top it with the novalac. you can tint the novalac stuff with pigments to give it a color as well. caswell plating has it in kits. its their fuel tank liner.
 
I like caswell's tank lining. Get the red so you'll be reminded of a bottle of Maker's Mark.

My tank doesn't/never had any paint in the lower reservoir. Would be no reason to be painted. The solvents down there leave a residue that isn't going to rust. The fumes/splash in the basket area doesn't eat the paint either. You use the washer and it all drains back down into the reservior and dries off. It would be overkill to put a coating in the bottom but it would also be piece of mind that in 20 years 40 gallons won't leak out.
 
I like caswell's tank lining. Get the red so you'll be reminded of a bottle of Maker's Mark.

My tank doesn't/never had any paint in the lower reservoir. Would be no reason to be painted. The solvents down there leave a residue that isn't going to rust. The fumes/splash in the basket area doesn't eat the paint either. You use the washer and it all drains back down into the reservior and dries off. It would be overkill to put a coating in the bottom but it would also be piece of mind that in 20 years 40 gallons won't leak out.


It will rust eventually! We have 2 of these and over years of heavy use they both had multiple pinholes of rust. Crazy, but it happens.
 
Just getting ready to try out the Caswell Tank Sealer, which is a Novalac Epoxy. Bought it in clear, then ordered a couple small things of white and red epoxy tint to try and get it close to original.
 
That may work well Mitch, I've had good luck with tank sealers. Sealed oil tanks etc... too. Blast it first for best results.
Do update us on your results
 
I have blasted the bottom, on both sides of it. I plugged a couple pin holes by applying tape on the bottom, and put about 10 coats of wax on the drum plug it uses as a drain. I purchased the car tank kit, which mixes up to a quart and a half. It is THICK!!! Reminds you of honey, or thicker... kind of like Motor Medic or similar engine oil additive. I tried doing smaller amounts, but it became clear that I wasn't going to have enough to do the bottom and the first 1/3 of the sides (it has a ledge at that level which a container mounts to). Since the bottom was my main concern, I decided to just mix it all and pour it in. So far, it seems like it was the right thing to do. With the smaller amounts, I could see the "roughness" and waviness of the bottom. Now, it is filled and basically level (I leveled the tank when I let it set) with more than enough for me to ever have another problem.

The funny thing is, if you research the Novalac epoxies JimC posted, they say they can be used with some very, very nasty materials. However, there is a warning that comes with the sealer kit that says not to use things that contain mineral spirits....odd. I planned on letting in cure for quite some time, so I don't think this will be an issue. I have used a cheaper tank seal kit on our other parts washer that had identical pinholes, and many more of them, and it worked. We just cleaned the tank after a couple years of use and it is still hard as a rock with no leaks. I probably didn't need to use the more expensive kit on mine, but....its mine, not the shops!

Since I couldn't do the first third of the sides with the Novalac, I think I'm going to roll on about 3 heavy coats of SPI Epoxy. Worse case scenario, the first time I clean it and find out it didn't work, I just redo the first 3rd. The rest of the tank isn't submerged, so I don't think that'll be an issue.

I'll have to post some pictures as I go...
 
Quick shout out to Barry. It's Sunday at 10:43 AM and I figured I'd quick text him asking if I could lay the part washer on its side and pour some epoxy on to self level and get a good thick coat or if I should brush/roll. He replied in less that 5 minutes saying lay it on its side. Amazing service. I can't imagine how good another product would have to be to keep me from switching to SPI service, especially considering their quality and cost are also great.
 
epoxies have a very wide thickness range depending on temp. the tank sealer will be extremely thick if its cold or even cool. if you warm it up a bit and even warm the drum up, i have gotten that stuff to be about as thin as mixed universal clear. would always pour it in a motorcycle tank then warm the tank in front of my torpedo heater. once everything was nice and toasty i would roll the tank around until it cooled down. mineral spirits is about the most gentle solvent there is. i cant imagine it even remotely coming close to attacking that epoxy.
 
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