UV clear over epoxy

B

Bman1126

New to this whole thing I’ve got questions, I’m going to paint my car with spi Black BC but in the engine bay I’m going to clear over the epoxy, right now I’ve got 2 coats of epoxy and tomorrow I’ll be spraying 2k regular buil primer over it, after that do I do full strength epoxy before clear or will reduced still give a nice shine?

If it’s reduced I know the cure time is shorter so I’d spray reduced one day and clear the next. does the min temp need to stay above 65 for 24hrs like if it was full strength?

Thanks

E24C1D9B-64FA-4244-B1B6-A58C54268699.jpeg
 
I have done certain engine bay parts like this for years, it will look just like a base clear.
Epoxy must set overnight before clearing.
 
Barry said:
I have done certain engine bay parts like this for years, it will look just like a base clear.
Epoxy must set overnight before clearing.
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Will it look good even reduced? I’d like to have the best chance of it flowing smooth. Thanks
 
I don't think much of the reducing of it, as the only way I have ever done it is 1:1 and lay two coats.
 
Mustang408 said:
That Mustang should look good when done.
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Hopefully lol, this will be my first I was going to go with the deep emerald green metallic but with my limited experience and air supply I decided to go with a solid color so I can paint it all apart.
 
Barry said:
I don't think much of the reducing of it, as the only way I have ever done it is 1:1 and lay two coats.
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Just a thought. I mixed 2 parts gray epoxy/1 part black, actually came out with the final color I was looking for, a nice blue/gray. Is it reasonable to clear over this or do I need to get an actual top coat computer matched? Can't seem to find anything close in a production vehicle. the actual cover's a little darker than the pic, but not much.
Primer2B.jpg
 
I would have a base color matched, just too many potential problems down the road in a case like this.
Just on example with this shade.
What if you painted cab and used a new hardener and 2 years from now needed to repair and the hardener was 6 months old. Hardener would have darken and with that light shade would not match.
Other matching risks also.
 
Barry said:
I would have a base color matched, just too many potential problems down the road in a case like this.
Just on example with this shade.
What if you painted cab and used a new hardener and 2 years from now needed to repair and the hardener was 6 months old. Hardener would have darken and with that light shade would not match.
Other matching risks also.
Click to expand...

Thanks Barry, makes sense. 5:24 AM? Don't you ever sleep?
 
I would go to your local paint supplier and look at their special color cards. I can speak only about Axalta I don't know if others have them, but our supplier had gave us a box full of special color cards that are not in their normal system or book. They are for wheels, jams, underbody etc and have many shades of different colors. They are basicly alternate color decks but with special colors. You might just find something that will be a very close match to what you have and the benefit would be that it would be repeatable if a repair is needed later.
 
Barry said:
My sleep schedules in bed by around 8pm but always up around 4am to 5am.
I just one of those that likes to get most of my work done by noon.
Just not normal. Lol
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I come from a Dairy Farmer family and reside in that area, so that's the norm in my area. You must have been a Dairy Farmer in your previous life ;).
 
Barry said:
My sleep schedules in bed by around 8pm but always up around 4am to 5am.
I just one of those that likes to get most of my work done by noon.
Just not normal. Lol
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I stopped being a "morning person" when I retired. Of course I never really was. I was up and working early but did my best later in the day, sometimes into the late night.
 
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