Different clear ?

Rbm

Professional amateur
I add about an ounce of reducer to 24 oz of RTS universal clear to help me get it to lay right. I have a sagola 4500 w\ 1.3 tip.. Should I use a different SPI clear that may be less solids or keep like I'm doing? I also run the gun about 5 lbs PSI more than recommended.
 
Ever try using the very slow activator? Makes the clear lay so much differently!
A 1.4 tip has always been Barry's recommendation in the past as most 1.3's over atomize the clear.. Ive been MIA for a few years but i doubt that has changed and ive used the products for 15 plus years now.
Universal is still may favorite.. Just can't be beat.. Happy Spraying
 
I have read many of your prior posts...good info. I have not tried strait slow activator. I have blended with slow...I'll try that when the weather changes. I really wonder if I'm defeating the purpose of UC by reducing it...I will get a 1.4 if I knew that would help...in read here where folks are spraying fine with a 1.3.... Maybe my technical ability is at fault.
 
If you have a clean environment that is fairly well heated, there is no reason not to try slow as BK suggests.

Hi @Bondoking , long time no see buddy!
 
wow nice to see bk back!

nothing wrong with an oz of reducer in uv clear. if you reduce just keep it at 10% and under. also dont do something like fast activator with slow reducer. generally try and keep the reducer the same or within 1 temp rating of the activator your using in the clear. just not a good practice.
 
Whatever works for you is fine as the amount of reducer you are using is perfect (if needed)
That gun with 1.3 tip you should have about 24-26Lbs wit the trigger pulled, look at spraying the first coat wetter if no reducer is used.
Also when I tested that gun with a 1.4, I found it was perfect with 90% wide open fan. 2.75 to 3 turns out on the fluid and with a 1.4, 28lbs at the gun with the trigger pulled and 6" from the panel.
Hello BK!!!!
 
Thx for all the help guys, it'll b about 3 weeks before I spray another project...I'll post results.
 
Whatever works for you is fine as the amount of reducer you are using is perfect (if needed)
That gun with 1.3 tip you should have about 24-26Lbs wit the trigger pulled, look at spraying the first coat wetter if no reducer is used.
Also when I tested that gun with a 1.4, I found it was perfect with 90% wide open fan. 2.75 to 3 turns out on the fluid and with a 1.4, 28lbs at the gun with the trigger pulled and 6" from the panel.
Hello BK!!!!
Barry,

I'm a new user and just got my first order of UV clear from you last week. Any tips on gun settings, reducing and spraying with a Tekna Copper, 7E7 cap with 1.4 tip? Thanks and sorry to hijack the thread.
 
Barry,

I'm a new user and just got my first order of UV clear from you last week. Any tips on gun settings, reducing and spraying with a Tekna Copper, 7E7 cap with 1.4 tip? Thanks and sorry to hijack the thread.

Everybody sprays slightly different so take this as what works for me.
Back fluid knob all the way out. Hold trigger full open and turn fluid knob in until it starts to lift trigger. Release trigger and turn knob 1/2 turn farther in.
With trigger pulled full open set air pressure to 30psi. These have a nice size fan on them so test on masking paper taped to wall to ensure proper pattern.
Spray about 6 inches maximum from the panel with a 50% overlap.
 
Barry,

I'm a new user and just got my first order of UV clear from you last week. Any tips on gun settings, reducing and spraying with a Tekna Copper, 7E7 cap with 1.4 tip? Thanks and sorry to hijack the thread.

Fan 90% wide open, 2.75 turns out on fluid and 28-30 LBs at the gun with the trigger pulled.
 
Everybody sprays slightly different so take this as what works for me.
Back fluid knob all the way out. Hold trigger full open and turn fluid knob in until it starts to lift trigger. Release trigger and turn knob 1/2 turn farther in.
With trigger pulled full open set air pressure to 30psi. These have a nice size fan on them so test on masking paper taped to wall to ensure proper pattern.
Spray about 6 inches maximum from the panel with a 50% overlap.

I agree like I say to people all week long the only thing that counts is the net result.
 
I had to quit trying to do 50% overlap. For me that much overlap is too sensitive to travel speed especially. Now I do about 25%75% or so with around twice the travel speed, so it's like every area gets 4 lighter passes instead of 2 heavy ones, if you get my drift. The only thing to watch out for when doing 25%75% overlap and higher travel speed is that you have to start and end farther off the panel, the first and last pass are only hitting the panel with 25% of the fan.

Edited to fix my mistakes.
 
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I find the 50% easier to obtain by simply aiming the center of my fan at the wet edge of the previous coat.
Having to develop a professional technique like you are describing may be beyond my abilities. ;)
 
Crash, so each pass you do only covers 25% of the previous? Or does it cover 75% and only 25% is a new pass?
Each time I advance, it is by 25% of the fan width, approximately. So, the second thing you said.

@'68 Coronet R/T , I have seen your results, they look even better than what I can do, so there's that. We all just have to do what works for us.

Where I found the 25%75% technique to be most helpful is on long bedsides (especially white), or anywhere where you have to take a step to finish a pass. What I found was that it was really hard for me to keep my gun travel speed perfectly constant, and with 50% overlap, I was almost sagging the paint in spots where visibility was not great. Anyway, it's helped me be more uniform.

Edited to fix my mistakes.
 
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I have considered trying this, it seems like if I'm just a bit off when I move it shows up. I have seen certain paints recommending this as well, usually the Kandy or pearl type. I'm definitely going to give it a shot
 
Each time I advance, it is by 25% of the fan width, approximately. So, the second thing you said.

@'68 Coronet R/T , I have seen your results, they look even better than what I can do, so there's that. We all just have to do what works for us.

Where I found the 25% technique to be most helpful is on long bedsides (especially white), or anywhere where you have to take a step to finish a pass. What I found was that it was really hard for me to keep my gun travel speed perfectly constant, and with 50% overlap, I was almost sagging the paint in spots where visibility was not great. Anyway, it's helped me be more uniform.

I hate painting white. I get snow blind in short order so I will remember your 25% overlap and give it a try if someone will pay me enough money to paint there vehicle white. :rolleyes:
 
I painted with 50% for a lot of years, it was how I was taught, and it worked. Seems like it worked better for me on the old lower solids stuff, like Centari and Delstar. But with the high solids stuff I was getting in trouble once in a while, mostly on long panels, or on white. A long white panel was the death of me, and there are actually quite a few of those here in Southern Idaho. Now I'm not afraid of them anymore, lol.
 
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