Why do we activate base coat?

  • Thread starter hudson hornet !
  • Start date
H

hudson hornet !

What is the point in activating base coat? I understand that we should do it, but no one explains why.
 
What activator do you recommend, since many basecoats don't have a specific activator? Can you, for instance, use SPI Universal Clearcoat activator with a Sherwin Williams Dimension basecoat if you intend on using the SPI as the clearcoat?
 
I've used SPI clear activator in Nason, Chromabase, and Diamont with no problems. It actually helps base to dry and is supposed to help prevent problems if you have to go back into base after clearing. I've never used S/W so can't say for that brand. I use one cap full per sprayable quart of base.
 
catso said:
What activator do you recommend, since many basecoats don't have a specific activator? Can you, for instance, use SPI Universal Clearcoat activator with a Sherwin Williams Dimension basecoat if you intend on using the SPI as the clearcoat?
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I'd definitely recommend letting the dimension basecoat sit overnight before clearing. I had a lot of die back with a 1 hr flash. You should get the rhf activator for the dimension base (if you are using the 6B). Read the tds for the dimension basecoat because they don't recommend other activators. I wouldn't intermix those products. That is asking for trouble. Also are you using the 6B or 5B? The 6B is similar to the ultra7000 line and is a high hiding basecoat. The mix is 2:1
 
I have used SPI activator in DBU no problems what so ever
 
I've used DBC with and without activator in the past and have no problems with SPI clear adhesion. I thought the re-coat window between base and clear applications is what determined linking or not. But, I now use activator for all DBC base because it made it easier to repair any possible clear to base break throughs and no issues with exposed base wrinkling if touched up.

Mike
 
For any one interested I use Wanda, Diamont and Glassurit base coats and have no problems with SPI clear activator.
 
MikeS said:
I've used DBC with and without activator in the past and have no problems with SPI clear adhesion. I thought the re-coat window between base and clear applications is what determined linking or not. But, I now use activator for all DBC base because it made it easier to repair any possible clear to base break throughs and no issues with exposed base wrinkling if touched up.

Mike
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I would strongly recommend it with Motobase too. I have struggled with this exact problem, where I broke through the clear getting a touchup to not wrinkle up and match (metallic) is close to impossible.... I had to respray clear in the area before the touchup base.
 
Another advantage to having your base coat activated is making it easier to repair.
I sanded through the clear to the base when color sanding prior to buffing. It was a small area about an inch long and normally would have required a couple of steps to correct, however since I activated the base coat it enabled me to just shoot more clear over the area without it blistering up.
 
'68 Coronet R/T said:
Another advantage to having your base coat activated is making it easier to repair.
I sanded through the clear to the base when color sanding prior to buffing. It was a small area about an inch long and normally would have required a couple of steps to correct, however since I activated the base coat it enabled me to just shoot more clear over the area without it blistering up.
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Exactly! This is a lesson learned the hard way on the Dart!
 
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