Adhesion over silicone bronze

K

krom

I tried searching, but struck out.
Are there any issues with putting epoxy over a seam in sheet metal using silicone bronze to hold it together?
 
i have painted small cast bronze statues before. no issues. i have never seen a metal epoxy wont stick to.
 
I was curious about using it for holding in patch panels in the quarters of my project. I don't have near the skill required to mig a butt weld 3' seam without warping the hell out of everything.
 
Not a butt joint because it will crack when melted in with the steel panel. It will work on lap joints, if it isn't structural. Post some pictures of what you want to do. If your patch panels are down low on the car, you might consider panel bonding adhesive.
 
Remember to that a lapped joint will be visible (after painting) especially when the sun heats the panel up. If you don't feel you have the skill to mig it you will probably run into trouble brazing it as well. Meaning you'll probably put too much heat in the panel and warp it anyway. Try practicing your Mig welding. When you fit the panels strive for a no gap fit. Once that is achieved spot weld skipping around, once you have it evenly spotted, grind those spots and hammer and dolly to make sure your butts are aligned, then do another round of spot welds. Grind, dolly and spot evenly again. Continue till you have connected all your spot welds. Done correctly this method will leave some warpage but it is not going to be a lot and you can use a light coat of filler over the seam. Far better than a lapped weld.
 
I'll have to get some pics up, but the car is a 72 Cutlass, and I need to repair/replace a section of the quarter from the wheel to the rear bumper.
 
As mentioned, panel adhesive, such as 3-m 8115, could be a consideration if you can't weld good enough. It would have to be some sort of a lap joint though. Strength of a good adhesive will not be an issue & no warping from heat, or backside rust if properly covered ,etc. You will need a special dispenser gun. Finishmaster's smart line has them for around $40 .

Issue is trying to hide a joint that will shadow for several reasons. If you could have the joint at an actual lower bodyline with a skimcoat of filler on top, movement in it will be far less noticeable than in the middle of a panel.

Other than that, time to practice welding butt joints with some decent sized scrap sections of 20 gauge steel.............
 
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