Single stage burn thru fix

Wet sanding the fender I accidental burned thru to the epoxy sealer. What process should I use to get the color back on. An inch maybe less long right on the body line. Thinking a foam roller to apply the paint then continue wet sanding it. I'm working with SPI black single stage. Or should I mask the entire car off and re shoot the area?
I applied three coats a week ago. I have some nice orange peel and was a little over aggressive with 1500.

if you are going to spot it in then no roller. you spary the area then melt in the edges with blending solvent. first grey scotchbrite the whole area.

You should be taping your edges.

Don

Any time I burn thru I worry about how thick the paint is everywhere else. You had alot of peel so its really your call whether you just 600 the car down and get it smooth and respray.

i have said it a thousand times not to sand edges and peaks. there is absolutely no reason to.

I painted the ’55 Studebaker using three coats of SS acrylic urethane in a solid color. I was very concerned with runs and orange peel. I had very few runs but quite a bit of orange peel. I wish now I would have put a fourth coat on so I would have a little thicker SS to work with.



I was breaking through on nearly every panel. My eye was just not good enough to tell when the 1,000 grit had gotten all the orange peel or when the subsequent finer grits of sandpaper had removed the last grit scratches. While visiting one of the Vo tech instructors at the local Cadillac dealership I explained the situation. One of his co-workers asked if I had tried the 3M dry guide and I told him I figured it would wash off with the wet sanding. He assured me it would not.



I bought some of it and tried it on the hood. I was very impressed. The lows in the orange peel appeared to be like the dimples on a gulf ball. I could tell how many of them were being sanded out just by watching the dry guide. Hopefully the photo I am going to try to attach will show this. I actually left a few for the 1,500 grit to take out. By reapplying the dry guide before the next grit I was able to “see” when the last sanding scratches were gone. I did not remove as much material with each grit and there was no breakthrough on the hood.



Shine and others on this site have talked quite a bit about the taping of edges and raised body lines. I use the ¼ plastic tape and protect those areas until I am at the 2,500 grit and then color sand the entire panel by hand with 3,000 grit and then compound.



It was not clear from your post if you had completed all the grits of sandpaper on the entire car or not. I was dealing with breakthroughs before completing the entire panel. Unfortunately, before I was finished all the way through the 3,000 grit another breakthrough would pop up and I would deal with it. I finally decided that the best course of action for me was to complete all the panels then go back and deal with the breakthroughs.



Charlie D.

Thanks for the info Charlie, that last picture, wow. Looks like fun to sand.

The whole thing is knowing your orange peel. If its so bad to begin with, dont even waste the other three coats. You are not filling the low spots, you are adding to the high spots and making it need to be sanded farther to get to the low point. Sand it down and make the adjustment to your technique or thinning ratio. We have all been there, spraying wet, looking good, a little more will look better. If you sprayed two coats and they looked smooth, then started getting more peel in the third, you can probably cut thru it. Best case I have seen is let coats fully cure and smooth them down the next day before putting another coat on.

I remove peel with 800 dry. I use more discs but you can easily see when the peel is gone so less chance of going too far. I then follow up with 1000, 1500, 3000 and 5000 all wet before compounding.

Don

Ordered the blending solvent. This will be my first attempt at doing this. Seems to be fairly easy to do but will practice first.

anotheridiot said:

The whole thing is knowing your orange peel. If its so bad to begin with, dont even waste the other three coats. You are not filling the low spots, you are adding to the high spots and making it need to be sanded farther to get to the low point. Sand it down and make the adjustment to your technique or thinning ratio. We have all been there, spraying wet, looking good, a little more will look better. If you sprayed two coats and they looked smooth, then started getting more peel in the third, you can probably cut thru it. Best case I have seen is let coats fully cure and smooth them down the next day before putting another coat on.

Click to expand...

The day I painted was really about the only chance I had when neighbors were gone, I was off of work, and the temperature was decent. I do have a tight orange peel pattern. Seems like a camera case finish. It has deeper spots in some areas and average in others. I now believe my compressor wasn't up for the job. I have considered repainting but not sure the weather will be right for me again this year. I am doing this in my non climate controlled garage. I purchased two single stage kits just incase I needed more since I did the jambs, under hood and trunk plus engine bay. Three coats took me the entire gallon. I can live with some flaws but if I don't have to then I will fix it. Also, this is alot of sanding. Wow