Can this be spot repaired?

T

TWINRAY

Or should i just apply base to the whole top
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and redo the whole top over? Fresh base and fresh clear that I was colorsanding. When clearing, 3 pieces of junk landed and I picked them out but the pull out included the base. I was thinking of applying Slicksand on the imperfection, blocking, and spotting the base, then clearing the whole top. Thanks

Ps. It's a Corvette hardtop
 
The best primer would be SPI epoxy if you have it. Slick sand is thick and can cause a wave where you stop spraying, and it can sometimes be a little aggressive on fresh featheredges, causing lifting. If you are not familiar with base blending, you might want to just base the whole thing again if you have the paint for it. Blending out from the middle of a large flat panel can be tricky.
 
The best primer would be SPI epoxy if you have it. Slick sand is thick and can cause a wave where you stop spraying, and it can sometimes be a little aggressive on fresh featheredges, causing lifting. If you are not familiar with base blending, you might want to just base the whole thing again if you have the paint for it. Blending out from the middle of a large flat panel can be tricky.

Thanks, yes I do have SPI epoxy. And have base left over. Probably should just do it over instead of bull $hittin' around. Should I use the epoxy as a sealer on the whole top? Man, I don't like the idea of all that product on the hardtop!
 
Crash as always is spot on, here's my answer to you're additional questions. Spot prime the sand through area and block it flat, if it's very noticeable (low) when you run hand over it, use some 2 part glaze, block it and spot prime with epoxy. When it's ready to sand block it out then sand the entire panel with 600 wet. Others may have a slightly different method but you can't go wrong with 600 wet as a final sand. If you haven't sanded through the primed area you won't need to seal it. When you paint get coverage on your repair area first. Meaning spray only the repair area gradually extending a little more with each coat. After you have coverage spray an additional 2 or so coats over the entire panel to even it out. Only proceed to clear when the color looks uniform over the entire panel. Once you have that you can clear it.
 
Chris makes a great point about the feathered area possibly being low. Some beginners sand down into the primer too far and also fail to extend the featheredges out far enough. From the picture, your work doesn't look bad at all, but carefully extending the featheredges out can reduce the need to fill the low area, since it will become more gradual and less easy to see or feel. The larger each "tree ring" is, the more gradual the slope. Since you've decided to re-base the whole top, making the repair a little larger isn't that big of a deal.
 
Agree with all above, if spot not low I would spot about 3 coats of epoxy and next day block it out with 600 and spot base and reclear.
If low something like Icing or dolphin glaze, block, spot epoxy, smooth out and paint.
DON'T use a polyester filler here.
 
there is a ton of material on there . i would let it cook for a few days before doing anything.
 
I had a break through when color sanding the hood and the size was about 1/4". I used some of the advise mentioned above (spot prime & block the area) then spot sprayed it with base and resprayed the whole hood after scuffing it with a gray Scotch pad. I'm curious about something you said, when you removed the junk that landed on the fresh clear you indicated it also removed some of the base? How long did you let the base cure before clearing?

Mike
 
there is a ton of material on there .
Lol, I sanded the krap out of it starting with #400 trying to get a couple of black dots (bugs) out. Got out all but one. Aftet#400 switched to #600. Never thought I'd break through the CC but I eventially did. Yes, a lot of CC was on there. I'll give it time. Weather is NG for any painting till Saturday anyway. Thanks
 
Mike, if you're talking to
I had a break through when color sanding the hood and the size was about 1/4". I used some of the advise mentioned above (spot prime & block the area) then spot sprayed it with base and resprayed the whole hood after scuffing it with a gray Scotch pad. I'm curious about something you said, when you removed the junk that landed on the fresh clear you indicated it also removed some of the base? How long did you let the base cure before clearing?

Mike

I let the base sit overnight before CC ithe next day. I think paint that was on my booth roof flaked in the base the day before. I don't paint under the best of conditions and when I tacked the base, the paint chips had dried in the base overnight. I noticed it after I did the clear the next day and using a knife tip and tweaser, dug them out.
 
Agree with all above, if spot not low I would spot about 3 coats of epoxy and next day block it out with 600 and spot base and reclear.
If low something like Icing or dolphin glaze, block, spot epoxy, smooth out and paint.
DON'T use a polyester filler here.
Thanks Barry, it "feels" flat. I do the 3 coats of epoxy like you said.
 
I did 3 coats of epoxy primer today on the hardtop. Looks good. Can I just tack off tomorrow morning and apply the basecoat or should I do #600? And if I do the #600, I just tack it off, right? I mean, I don't use the W&G remover over the epoxy before applying base? Thanks
 
The
I did 3 coats of epoxy primer today on the hardtop. Looks good. Can I just tack off tomorrow morning and apply the basecoat or should I do #600? And if I do the #600, I just tack it off, right? I mean, I don't use the W&G remover over the epoxy before applying base? Thanks

The W&G remover won't hurt a thing.

And yes I would smooth it out with the 600 sand paper.
 
Let us know how it goes! We're like proud uncles when a project gets finished! :)
Will do, tomorrow base and Thursday clear. Here it is after #600 and starting to remask. Anyone have issues doing base and clear in the same day? When I did the car (s), I waited till the next day for clear. But that was mainly due to it being too late in the day to start doing coats of clear. Thanks
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Oh, you primered the whole thing??? o_O
Well, it won't hurt anything. You really only needed to cover the repair.
 
Oh, you primered the whole thing??? o_O
Well, it won't hurt anything. You really only needed to cover the repair.
Yeah, I thought about a spot repair but figured it mjght be the smart thing (for me anyway ) to not worry about blending and basically start over. Haven't done anything in the way of blending and now isn't a good time to start.
 
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