Clear Coat Clarity vs Quality

danp76

Oldtimer
Hi everyone, I have seen some very expensive clear (Glasurit for example) that are not perfectly clear and have a bit of a yellowish tint to them. Conversely, I have seen some very inexpensive, low quality clears that are crystal clear. (Limco for expamle) Is the yellow tint have to do with resin quality or anything to do with UV stabilizers as some companies claim. What's interesting is Glasurit is BASF's best clear and LImco is their cheapest line....thoughts?
 
I think it's the UV blocker that gives clear a slight yellow tinge when added in adequate amounts. Maybe @Barry will let me know if I'm right...
 
In the thickness they are applied I am not sure it makes any difference in the final finish color etc....

Are you thinking it does?

Don
 
In the thickness they are applied I am not sure it makes any difference in the final finish color etc....

Are you thinking it does?

Don
I think it may make a difference on certain colors. I'm just uncertain why some expensive clears are crystal clear and others have a yellow cast and are also expensive.
 
I think it may make a difference on certain colors. I'm just uncertain why some expensive clears are crystal clear and others have a yellow cast and are also expensive.
Barry would say they're expensive because they have to pay for their stickers on fast cars that go straight or only make left turns.
 
Barry would say they're expensive because they have to pay for their stickers on fast cars that go straight or only make left turns.
I agree that they are expensive. My question is why do their expensive clears often have a yellow cast and their cheaper clears are crystal clear? What is creating the yellowish cast, there must be some advantage or not?
 
I agree that they are expensive. My question is why do their expensive clears often have a yellow cast and their cheaper clears are crystal clear? What is creating the yellowish cast, there must be some advantage or not?
Two folks above told you it is UV blockers. Expensive clears would use more UV blockers imho.

At what “thickness” do you see the yellow cast? Compare that thickness to what is applied to a car. Huge difference imho.

Don
 
You asked a similar question a few years ago.:) Barry commented in that thread.

 
You asked a similar question a few years ago.:) Barry commented in that thread.

Thank you, Chris! I guess my memory is going lol
 
I have personally never seen a high quality clear that in the cup wasnt "yellowish" But I've seen a bunch of cheap stuff that was clear.

What higher end clear have you used that was crystal clear?
 
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There are a couple of answers to your question.
Clear vs. off-color.
1) the base resins used are rated by clarity, pay more, and have a better gardener rating, aka more clarity.
2) there are multi choices as to types of UV observers, and they very big time on yellow tint vs. clarity.
3) you're looking into can your looking at almost a foot thick so you will see a cloudy or yellow tint look.
4)higher solids play a big part when looking in the can.

So you can have a crap clear, and it could be very clear or yellow looking.

It's going to get worse with the companies that slap a label on their private label crap as UV protection
Is the most expensive part of the clear.

All I can say if any of the above makes sense, you better know who your buying from and their record over the past years.
Same with the majors lower lines as seeing solids reduced down to 22%.
On a red decklid did not last a year.
Buyer beware!
 
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All it took was one time for me seeing a major label clear fail in less than 5 years to know that you don't always get what you pay for.

Also I think it is a shame that there is no standardized rating for clear coat the way there is for engine oil. Bad clear can cause expensive damage, but I guess because it is cosmetic, nobody cares.
 
All it took was one time for me seeing a major label clear fail in less than 5 years to know that you don't always get what you pay for.

Also I think it is a shame that there is no standardized rating for clear coat the way there is for engine oil. Bad clear can cause expensive damage, but I guess because it is cosmetic, nobody cares.
Having worked for an oil company, even those standards are questionable.
Say it meets SG requirements that is a minimum standard, and the good companies add to that standard and the premium producers add more or increase amounts of additive and quality
Varies with a big swing.

Again, like paint you buy a private label of 10w30 vs say a major 10w30 and you will wonder why after time the car starts burning oil.
And could be the same company making both
 
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