Harder body filler for metal.

I had a rookie mistake using all metal. I mixed it exactly as the instructions said, and it cured within 30 seconds. View attachment 12361

you can see here where it cured too quick. instructions said 3 minutes, but it was very hot and humid when i applied it. apparently temperature affects the cure time....who knew..ha!

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I mixed in less hardener here and it spread good.

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here I put less hardener in and when i started sanding it about 3 hours later, it was still gummy.

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Don't feel bad, like I said previously been using it for many years and it still sometimes bites me in the but. it takes a while to get the hang of the hardener. And yes on hot days it will kick much faster. keep up the great job
 
Don't feel bad, like I said previously been using it for many years and it still sometimes bites me in the but. it takes a while to get the hang of the hardener. And yes on hot days it will kick much faster. keep up the great job
do you know if I can apply layers of all metal?

what i did was sand most of the old all metal off with 80 grit, then wiped down with wax and grease remover, then reapplied all metal on top. Will it stick to previous sanded all metal filler?
 
it will stick but wipe with acetone. if the acetone softens it and starts wiping it off then you need to take the rest off. a polyester resin like that should be able to take an all day bath in acetone and not harm it. any 1/2 cured material that is covered over will come back to bite you
 
it will stick but wipe with acetone. if the acetone softens it and starts wiping it off then you need to take the rest off. a polyester resin like that should be able to take an all day bath in acetone and not harm it. any 1/2 cured material that is covered over will come back to bite you
hmm...well poop....I already reapplied it.
 
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You got to get all that gummy stuff out. Then id fill with p17 and go with it. All metal nor metal to metal will impart any strength to that joint. At least p17 would to a certain extent, otherwise just a good filler. Or lead...
 
You got to get all that gummy stuff out. Then id fill with p17 and go with it. All metal nor metal to metal will impart any strength to that joint. At least p17 would to a certain extent, otherwise just a good filler. Or lead...
I sanded most of it out, but there was still some left in, and it was sand-able, not gummy. Not really going for strength, I welded the whole seam, then hit it with a flap disk. dont judge my welds...lol

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Giggity, with those welds I would use Evercoat Poly Flex there. It's much more flexible especially in thicker areas, I'm thinking there is going to be some movement around those welds.
 
Giggity, with those welds I would use Evercoat Poly Flex there. It's much more flexible especially in thicker areas, I'm thinking there is going to be some movement around those welds.
hmm, I welded so there isnt any movement...I dunno. I was told from a guy who does second gen camaros to use all metal. I was actually going to use duraglass(i think). I was kinda talked out of it.

I do have subframe connectors, so hopefully the twist will be minimal.
 
Those welds need better toe in. I'd do another row of bead, and grind.

Fitzee Fab on youtube has a good video on this.
 
P17 is some bad ass stuff. Yes high heat. I believe its rated to something like 450deg. Its a structural plastic when cured so it will have strength without being bonded to a surface unlike regular body filler. Its a solid plastic when its cured much like straight fiberglass resin or epoxy. Its been around for 20+ years. Its big in the marine and aerospace industry. Doesnt shrink and cures hard. It is much harder to sand than regular bodyfiller so its not something you really want to use as your main filler to skim and flatten panels unless you like sanding. Super sticky and bonds to just about everything.
Bad ass for sure! I'm just now checking this stuff out and found the TDS on it. Its over half the Tensile Strength of a good weld, and also has flex strength, so it should be good for factory seams.
@Jim C Do you see a way to make this thin/liquid enough to pore into a mold?
https://www.expresscomposites.com/pub/media/wysiwyg/TDS-AD/TDS_-_P-17.pdf

TYPICAL PHYSICAL PROPERTIES Tensile Strength (ASTM D-638.91)..................................4074psi (28MPa)
Tensile Elongation (ASTM D-638.91.................................................................................................1.2%
Flexural Strength (ASTM D-790.92)...................................................................................................7080psi (49MPa)
Compressive Strength (ASTM D-695.91) ........................................................................................8992psi (62MPa)
Shrinkage (Cast Bar)(ASTM D-2566.86)............................................................................................0.00982 in/in
Coefficient of Linear Thermal Expansion (TMA) (ppm/°F (°C)) ...............................................25 (46)
Water Absorption after 24 hours immersion in distilled water (ASTM D-570)..................0.149%

NOTE: All high heat resistant systems typically exhibit a slight color change at the extreme end of the
elevated temperature range when used in tooling repairs

It didn't seem too expensive for what it is
https://www.expresscomposites.com/ad17
 
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i dont believe you can thin p17 or 14. if your looking for something like that then use epoxy casting resin....unless you need the high reat resistance of the p17. p17 and 14 are probably the greatest fillers out there. not super easy sanding but for something where you want real non shrinking strength in a repair then its the way to go. regular body fillers no matter how good are not even the same league. doesnt soak up water or solvents either. its just like a solid resin with no fillers but its thick. crazy stuff for sure.
 
I need something that I can make a hollow pot metal part solid, then file through the pot metal to change the shape.
 
yeah it would work great for that except the thickness. its not self leveling. epoxy may be the way to go
 
Looks great, I would go over it quickly with a wire wheel to make sure there is nothing in the cracks and crevices clean it with some solvent blow it off and hit it with the all metal. FYI, All Metal does not like Epoxy. I would do that area in two applications push the first coat in real well, it will last for ever. I have restorations that have been on the road for over 30 years with All metal on them and they still look great.
 

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