Does anyone still dip entire bodies to remove rust and other junk?

Rusty105

Promoted Users
OK, have a 65 Mustang coupe project that I think I am going to resurrect. It has been sitting for a good number of years, so this will be like starting from square one, which is probably not a bad idea. It is rusty! and rotted in several locations; floors, frame rails, trunk, shock towers, etc.... What do you recommend for removing the rust and old seam sealer and Bondo to get me down to clean steel? I saw several restorations where the entire body was dipped to remove everything (mostly) and leave you with clean steel. My worry is that there is rust in areas I can't get to, like sail panels, torque boxes, around the roof line, etc. Does anyone still dip the bodies? Is there a better way? Will eventually be using SPI products for the priming... I am not 'stuck' on dipping, I am really just starting a conversation, and eventually guide me in the right direction. Attached are some pictures. I am in the Northeast, if anyone wants to recommend a shop. ( NY 10512)
 

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I don't know of an dippers in the area. If you do, let me know. I took my 62 vette to American Dry Stripping in Milford Ct., https://www.americandrystripping.com/
They did a great job for a reasonable price, $2100 for the entire body and boxes of parts, some from other cars too. They won't remove bondo, and probably not much of the seam sealer either. At least not from fiberglass. I would give them a call to discuss your project.
 
I don't know of an dippers in the area. If you do, let me know. I took my 62 vette to American Dry Stripping in Milford Ct., https://www.americandrystripping.com/
They did a great job for a reasonable price, $2100 for the entire body and boxes of parts, some from other cars too. They won't remove bondo, and probably not much of the seam sealer either. At least not from fiberglass. I would give them a call to discuss your project.
I don't think they are too far away. My major concern is the areas that can't be blasted? How do I adequately stop/coat the rust so it doesn't progress in the areas that are hidden?
 
I saw several restorations where the entire body was dipped to remove everything (mostly) and leave you with clean steel. My worry is that there is rust in areas I can't get to, like sail panels, torque boxes, around the roof line, etc. Does anyone still dip the bodies? I ( NY 10512)
The factory gave us clean-unprotected metal in those areas, and they survived over 50 years. Are you going to put the Mustang through more torture than it has already been through? None the less, we have products to use in those areas now for protection, and if you find the right dip stripper to do the job, I think your Mustang is a good candidate. The process is only as good as the person doing the job.
 
May also consider dippers that dip car and then dip in ecoat as the factory does.
Not cheap but a big labor saver and done right.
church had one in Jackson MS but sold out to a big company that has multi-locations a few years ago.
Last time I talked to him, a 69 GTO was about $4200.

I hear every so often of restoration shops having this done.
 
Keep in mind that acid dipping and electrolytic dipping are two different things. Electrolytic dipping removes only the rust. Usually stuff gets a caustic soda bath first to remove paint etc., then the electrolytic dipping process which removes the rust from everywhere on the car, even between the panels (like two spot welded together panels). If it's done right it's the absolute best option. Acid dipping removes the rust and metal so it thins the good metal too and is not as good a choice.
It's hard to find a electrolytic dipper as I think there are only a few around the country.
 
When mine was done it was baked in an oven to remove everything but the rust. then dipped in an alkaline bath for rust removal. Place was in Allentown, PA but has since closed.
 
When mine was done it was baked in an oven to remove everything but the rust. then dipped in an alkaline bath for rust removal. The place was in Allentown, PA, but has since closed.

Thank you, Obama EPA, a lot of them and chrome places went bye, bye.
Spi was a target at that time due to the amount of Iso's we buy.
 
When mine was done it was baked in an oven to remove everything but the rust. then dipped in an alkaline bath for rust removal. Place was in Allentown, PA but has since closed.
Could that have been Redi-strip? Instead of an alkaline solution, I think they used sulfuric acid. Redi-strip nation wide are the ones IMO that gave the bad name to chemical strippers, and they are out of business now except for one in Chicago, and they kept the name but changed their process.
 
MCR in Chippewa falls,Wi dips and uses (or at least did use) a place near Milwaukee. American Metal Cleaning may be who They use.The cars I saw looked good.
 
May also consider dippers that dip car and then dip in ecoat as the factory does.
Not cheap but a big labor saver and done right.
church had one in Jackson MS but sold out to a big company that has multi-locations a few years ago.
Last time I talked to him, a 69 GTO was about $4200.

I hear every so often of restoration shops having this done.
I know this post if almost a year old, but do you know if this place in Jackson,Ms is still in business, if so the name? Thanks - EH
 
Use to be churches but sold to a major ecoater a few years back.
I don't know the name, but I found out searching for David Church.
I have a few shops that have cars dipped but not like years ago.
 
Use to be churches but sold to a major ecoater a few years back.
I don't know the name, but I found out searching for David Church.
I have a few shops that have cars dipped but not like years ago.
Thanks Barry
 
Could that have been Redi-strip? Instead of an alkaline solution, I think they used sulfuric acid. Redi-strip nation wide are the ones IMO that gave the bad name to chemical strippers, and they are out of business now except for one in Chicago, and they kept the name but changed their process.
It was hydrochloric acid for the rust, but they are getting full of citric acid now that will even passivate stainless steel. Alkaline solution will remove the paint. Run it about 8-16 ounces per gallon, add about 4 ounces per gallon of sodium gluconate to keep the caustic from becoming a rock, and heat to about 140.

I used Redistrip last year for some electrical enclosures, they were aluminum so they came back with a slime all over them from the environmentally friendly strippers. Dont put aluminum in that caustic bath. I would have been better off going after them with scotch brite.

He had a 82 or so el camino there, chemically stripped and derusted, the guy said they charged him 3100. There was a model a body and frame there, they were about to do that for 1800.
 
It was hydrochloric acid for the rust, but they are getting full of citric acid now that will even passivate stainless steel. Alkaline solution will remove the paint. Run it about 8-16 ounces per gallon, add about 4 ounces per gallon of sodium gluconate to keep the caustic from becoming a rock, and heat to about 140.

I used Redistrip last year for some electrical enclosures, they were aluminum so they came back with a slime all over them from the environmentally friendly strippers. Dont put aluminum in that caustic bath. I would have been better off going after them with scotch brite.

He had a 82 or so el camino there, chemically stripped and derusted, the guy said they charged him 3100. There was a model a body and frame there, they were about to do that for 1800.
thanks for the info. I'm trying to find someone relatively close to Jackson, MS
 
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