Cost of PPG DC 3000 Kit?
- Thread starter Barry
- Start date
AAE
Learner
I didn't word that very well did I. This summer I use the fast with the 895 to near 100 deg. We still have some hot days ahead but want to plan for cooler times too.
metalman
Oldtimer
With Euro 2020 the reducer has more to do with flow in temperatures than activator. When it cools off go back down to the 885 then the 870 as it gets cooler. Or blend your 895 with 870. You may want to ask Barry for a more specific answer on the activators.
I always associated the "70" in 870 as 70ish degrees....."85" in 885 as 85ish degrees..... "95" in 895 as 95 degree range. Then the retarder can be used to adjust. Not real scientific but helps it work for me.
I don't know anything about the new speed clear but sounds like a home run for some types of jobs.
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AAE
Learner
I love having one activator and adjusting with the reducer. Use the appropriate.additive and you have it all.
AAE
Learner
My wife thought I'd make her rich. Fooled you both.
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
AAE
Learner
That's exactly what I do. Difference is that if it's 70, I use the 885. Always a step slower to account for atomization.
AAE
Learner
Someplace, Barry said fast year round with the new clear. I have fast and med on the way.
AAE
Learner
If there's a way to mess this up, I'll find it. Then you'll have to tell me a hundred more times.
After reading the tech page, if I am understanding it correctly, if you were clearing a fender and door you would spray 2 coats back to back on the fender, then spray 2 coats back to back on the door? I have seen painters spray like this with good results, but I never understood how you could get it even with all the overlap. I've always walked the sides. Will the 4 coats where it's overlapped affect the clear since it's a 2 coat only clear?
Probably the only downside to 3 coats it’s that it will take longer to cure, so you take away speed. I say this because Barry sent me a couple of gallons with Fast and Medium activators to play with. On two separate occasions I sprayed three coats because of fish eyes on used car dealer work and the clear held up great, one black car I got to see two days after and there was no hint of die back, buffing was easy to do as well.
I can’t wait to receive my order where I will have all three speed activators and do more ‘testing’.
AAE
Learner
Give us some of your findings. What worked, what didn't. All of the perts.
Hmmm, where to begin?
Just a couple of hours ago I gave some Speed clear to a friend of mine that likes to slam the Production and EURO on the wet side of things, he goes in close and fast with a Tekna clearcoat gun.
He did both sliding doors, quarter panels and bumper corner in a PW7 (white) Dodge Caravan . We used Medium speed activator and this guy was a bit lazy to go and grab a bigger SATA RPS cup and instead he chose a .300 ML one, that's what, 8 oz? So we had to fill up that ridiculous small thing for the job like three times but for the spraying temperature ( 75-80 F max) it was no big deal and he got no dry spray anywhere. I think he overlapped a bit too much in one area when he had to stop to refill and go back to spraying that he got some flow indicators that will buff right out tomorrow morning. Something I have noticed if you get a sag or run they always tend to level out because basically two coats become one and then you don't have those nasty sausage runs where the surrounding clear seems very thin, the ones that are a pain in the rear to fix. I have yet to see big-deep solvent pop from this clear in the 15 paint jobs I have done or have given the spray gun to a painter. It seems like it will take quite a bit of abuse.
The thing to watch out for is technique if you spray back to back on the same panel, depending on the speed activator you choose you may have to do a first closed coat at 80% then you go back 100% in the second coat. When I did a whole side of a car or a front clip I just did 2 panels at a time and whatever best panel sequence that came into my head, I'm very cumbersome at trying to explain things so I won't even try. The gist of it is that once you choose the right activator you won't have to do the 1.5 coats that the competition calls for on their speed clears but instead 2 full coats.
The biggest concern for me selling this new clear will be making sure the waterborne basecoat is fully dry, that's the only time I have gotten micro solvent pop or a bit of die back on a hood, and it seems is the waterborne stuff that will be more headache than even rushing the solvent basecoat, I have no clue if it's a matter of "excessive moisture" in waterborne paint that makes things go south and then the clear doesn't look as good as it should. I'm really looking forward to trying the Slow or a 50/50 blend of Med/Slow to see if avoid any trace of die back altogether. This micro pinching or die back we fixed in one hour of buffing with Trizact 3000 alone, so the body shop owner is still stoked to get this clear in his shop.
You guys will know right away when you start using it, the first black or dark colors or solid reds you spray you will notice how good of a finish this clear has. Can't wait for all of your feedback as well.
Oh forgot to add that this clear seems dust free like in 15-20 mins tops, painters are always surprised how quick they can unmask and kick the car to the drying room, or out of the booth into the shop and bring the next one in. Time to handle parts have been around the 90 minute mark and minor buffing as well.
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
I was told that you have 5 minutes TOPS between coats, seems not worth the risk to me. In my case I was less worried about allowing flash, what I wanted was to be more accurate about mixing, measuring the amount used in the first coat to determine the amount needed for the second. This has always worked out well for me. Now I think I will have to keep a notebook detailing what panels took how much paint, for some reason I am bad at remembering that.
AAE
Learner
Interesting. Poor Mr. Kives is going to get a lot more calls.
Good to know about the 5 minutes max time.
The only time I went off script is when I had to shoot 3 coats to bury some fish eyes, which it did.
About the minor solvent pop I saw only once it had to do with excessive coats with Envirobase on that hood. Outside on the blend area on the fenders and the front aftermarket bumper that was painted the clear stayed perfectly fine, so basically there was nothing inherently wrong with the clear itself and giving it some flash time between coats wouldn’t have changed a thing.
Envirobase is one of the worse basecoats when it comes to dry times and hiding on some colors. If it wasn’t because they probably have one of the best color match in the industry nobody would stick with it.
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