CAN'T STOP ORANGE PEEL

JC Daniel

Promoted Users
I spray both Euro and Universal clears but I am yet to spray a slick orange peel free finish, I spray mostly with an Iwata lph 400 1.4 and I a am sure it is in my settings and or technique. Any of you guys have some pointers to get me on track here?
 
To me its either reducer or retarder. I can only get a glass spray to gloss shine if the clear is reduced. I am sure it has to do with technique, airflow, but I am just better spraying a clear that is cut 4:1:1. It seems to be the secret of SPI is adding that retarder since it takes so much less than reducer. Yes, that was after buying an official LPH-400 for 350 from Amazon, and switching to a half inch air line.

That being said, I would feel a whole lot better if it were in the directions, dont know why it seems to be a secret.
 
There's a section in the manual on gun adjustment and another on fine-tuning.

I know the Iwata calls for real low pressure but I've yet to hear many say they spray below 25-30 psi. I've even seen YouTube painters say they go as high as 35.

Check those pages out and set up some paper on the wall and test, test, test.
 
Other things to check.
Iwata is made to hold 5-6" from panel, that is 90% of the orange peel calls i get.
Next biggest call strainers in gun!
That gun I use everyday 3 times today already..
90% wide open fan.
Fluid turn in and back out 2.5 to 3 turns.
28lbs with trigger pulled at gun, not at wall!!!!!! for clear.
20-24 Lbs for base at gun with trigger pulled.
 
I just did a few sample spray outs on some speed shapes tonight. Only one coat of UC but real slick. Added retarder to get it to flow out. I think retarder is the special sauce. Barry has said some people add up to 50% retarder in the final coat. :eek:
 

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With HS clears overlap is really important as well. I've found that for me 75% works best. Less fluid output, more overlap.

This kinda hit home as I never gave over lap a 2nd thought and had no idea what I do.
SO yesterday, I did a lot of spraying and paid attention and I'm actually at around 70-75%!!! I had no idea and assumed I was around 50%.
First time I have been wrong this year. LOL
 
This kinda hit home as I never gave over lap a 2nd thought and had no idea what I do.
SO yesterday, I did a lot of spraying and paid attention and I'm actually at around 70-75%!!! I had no idea and assumed I was around 50%.
First time I have been wrong this year. LOL
Now you'll have revise the manual to say 75% overlap.
 
I just did a few sample spray outs on some speed shapes tonight. Only one coat of UC but real slick. Added retarder to get it to flow out. I think retarder is the special sauce. Barry has said some people add up to 50% retarder in the final coat. :eek:

Yeah, I agree with that, but have also done spray outs on speed shapes that looked great. The key I get out of it is one coat. Somehow you get a gun in front of a car and it looks great but more must be better.

So since this is bringing up "common" knowledge, the first paint job I did was ruined because we left the fan on in the spray booth. The common knowledge part was you are supposed to turn off the fan as soon as the cloud goes away. So since I am starting to feel that its just far too much paint that causes the peel most of us see, and you can see that one coat on this chip is just money (probably would have looked good without retarder) if you are going to spray a coat and wait a full 30 minutes before going back in, what do you do with the fan? Is the fan running between all the 30 minute wait times of the perfect paint job?
 
I haven't seen anything about what your conditions are and what activator your using.
Since Universal isn't reduced, the activator selection is crucial. Always go a step slower than you think you need.
 
I haven't seen anything about what your conditions are and what activator your using.
Since Universal isn't reduced, the activator selection is crucial. Always go a step slower than you think you need.

I agree. I am in Mississippi where temps and humidity are always high this time of year. If I try to use normal reducer and normal activators this time of year I will get orange peel no matter what I do. The slower reducer and activators always help.
 
I really think overlap, travel speed, and gun distance are the 3 keys. You can set your gun up correctly every time but if you are off on one of those three things it won't come out slick.

Of the three I think gun distance is probably the easiest to get right, the other two take experience and practice to figure out. I lack both so when I go to clear I have to force myself to slow down. Maybe it is a normal pace to clear at, but I have nothing to really base that off of it so it feels odd.

In the warm humid weather retarder is the way to go. Like everyone else mentions it really makes a nice difference, but there is kind of a learning curve with it too. How much to add based on your conditions can be tricky until you get your own baseline.
 
a wet thin coat will not create peel . 99% of the time peel is caused by hosing the clear on trying to get it slick . stacking the solids instead of laying them out smooth . cutting back 1/2 turn on fluid and upping pressure 5 lbs will surprise you .

the iwata fan is designed to shoot 90 degrees at 4-6 inches . if you get someone to snap a pic of you shooting you will find you are 6-10 inches off by habit . it was the hardest part of learning the lph400 .
 
I do falter on distance with the Iwata, I am always bashing myself for not staying close enough. I use slow activator and slow reducer all through the spring and summer, I know I need a lot of practice to get where I need to be.
 
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