Questions about SPI Euro clear

T

Twisted

Hey guys, been a member for a while but never posted, and was wondering if anyone could help me out. I'll jump right to the questions and make an into below in case anyone wants to skip it.
Is the Euro clear alot harder than the universal? How long is the activator good for once opened? Can you clear the base, wetsand, then airbrush graphics, and final clear? Ive used an intercoat before to do this but with the price of the euro i would think it would work better for a barrier before airbrush instead. And also can you use House of Kolor reducers with Euro? Only because I have a few different temp HOK reducers and hate to buy a full gallon of spi when I don't paint often.

So a little background, I'm 43, been into cars and bikes all my life. Only painted one full car, my 72 Duster with single stage, my old Softail, and now my Chopper, I do all my one fab and bodywork and the end results are always great, but Id still consider myself a novice. I picked up an airbrush a little over 2 years ago and self taught myself to paint fire. After about 8 months of occasionally painting i decieded to paint my bike, still improving on the fire, just need to practice more, dont get to often. The reason for the questions? I painted my 05 Big Dog Chopper a year and a half ago with House of Kolor epoxy, base, intercoat, graphics, then cleared with SPI Universal clear. It went on like glass and if I wasn't painting in my garage and got dirt in the paint I would have even needed to wetsand. I was highly impressed with how it went on especially not having alot of painting under my belt. I let it cure for a month and reassembled. Even though I love how it sprays, it came out way too soft, 6 months later I put on a suction cup rear seat on the rear fender to take the kids for a ride and it left marks, they cam out but I wasn't happy. Then I noticed where the struts bolt to the fender was causing the clear to mushroom out on the edges, I followed all flash times, and had the right temp, maybe too thick, was 3 coats.
So I'm painting some new parts cause I'm changing out the rear fender and would like a harder clear. I was leaning towards HOK UC35 as it is said to dry really hard but I have a hard time paying $100 for a quart and activator which will give me a half gallon spray able when I can get a gull gallon of the 4:1:1 Euro with activator for just a little more and I end up with 1.5 gallons sprayable. But I want to make sure it's going to be hard enough that I don't run into the same problem. And the left overs I could use for cups and signs I like to airbrush for practice.
So that's my story, sorry it's so long, that's why I posted the questions first. I'll try to upload a few picks of some of the stuff I've done below. Not professional like some of you guys but I'm having fun doing it. Any help would be great. Thanks

Butch
 
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This is my chopper, the last pic was after clear, and before wetsand and buff.
 
Here's some of the stuff I did for practice. Im not big on artistic talent, can't draw to save my life, but love to play with the airbrush.
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After painting the bike I kind of got out of it. I just picked it back up and want to keep at it. These were the most recent painting.
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Can't help you with the clear, I've only shot universal, but that is some awesome airbrush work!

Thanks, it's fun to play around with it, hope to keep improving. Yeah I love the Universal clear just need something harder. I'd use it again in a heartbeat on a car though.
 
Well, talked to Barry today for almost a half hour and got all of my questions answered and then some. And explained why the universal clear on my bike stayed softer. Great guy, a wealth of knowledge, and amazing service, unlike any company I've ever seen. Thanks for all the help Barry. I ordered some of the 5000 Euro clear 4:1:1 and fast activator today like you recommended for all my smaller projects and will combine that with the proper temp reducer. I also found that Bloxygen you mentioned to prolong the life of the activator so I'll be picking up that as well. Can't wait to try the euro out.

Butch
 
Barry said it could have been a combination of the base not being 100%cured and may have needed more outdoor sun time before assembly. I should be better off with the faster curing Euro for what I'm doing.
 
So why do you think the UC didn't harden?

Head been inside all winter and worst yet over black.
Normally after a Harley paint just 3 full days in sun will get it to the hardness needed but mils are also a factor here.
Some shops will do 6 , 8 or 9 coats of clear, now we need 5-7 full days in sun.
2 coats, 1 full day in sun.
 
Head been inside all winter and worst yet over black.
Normally after a Harley paint just 3 full days in sun will get it to the hardness needed but mils are also a factor here.
Some shops will do 6 , 8 or 9 coats of clear, now we need 5-7 full days in sun.
2 coats, 1 full day in sun.
Hey Barry, i forget what you said, going with the fast activator and proper temp reducer is that going to change the flash times of the clear for the next coat. I'll probably doing 3 coats like the universal, I know you mentioned it but it was alot of information to process in that conversation. Looks like my Euro will be arising tomorrow as per UPS, now that's fast shipping!!! Thanks again

Butch
 
I think you will like the Euro Clear. The more you spay it you will learn to "tune the clear in" . I like to use the slow activator in this heat but for quick production I use a mix of fast and normal reducer.
 
I'm sure I will. I'm only doing some small stuff right now, fender, bags, brackets, then after that will just be some sign panels and misc. small parts. Should work out great!

After I do the bike parts I'm gonna experiment with using a mini gun with it. Would be Alot easier for stuff like sign panels.
 
I think you will like the Euro Clear. The more you spray it you will learn to "tune the clear in" . I like to use the slow activator in this heat but for quick production I use a mix of fast and normal reducer.

Kinda funny as I get a lot of calls first time someone sprays one of our clears and the comment will be, "this is the best ever used".
My statement is you have no clue yet, the more you play and abuse it the better it will perform for you.
We have one of the most famous painters around, his paint jobs start at $35,000 and average $50,000 and this is price to do a brand new car with no miles on it the same color and like he says, the more I abuse it the more i love it.
 
Love this clear at first i was having problens lol..now hsve learn a bit more about the this clear and the more you play with it the more you will like it... i will be spraying my daily soon with this clear,sbd dark red from SPI,, single cab chevy.
2 wet coats of euro on thhs Cummins bed dont do much custom work but yor work is bad ass Twisted


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Love this clear at first i was having problens lol..now hsve learn a bit more about the this clear and the more you play with it the more you will like it... i will be spraying my daily soon with this clear,sbd dark red from SPI,, single cab chevy.
2 wet coats of euro on thhs Cummins bed dont do much custom work but yor work is bad ass Twisted


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Thanks man, that truck bed looks killer. Gonna be a couple weeks before I'm ready to try out the clear but I got it in yesterday and can't wait. Good luck on the truck!
 
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